I really like the Dries Van Noten this
season products, he perfectly to apply Chinese elements on clothing,like
the easy yet structured tailoring, ethnic prints, a touch of
handcraft and embellishment.
Van Noten said he’d recently
taken a trip to the Victoria and Albert in London—specifically, to the museum’s
holdings of decorative arts and costumes of the world—for print inspiration. He
photographed costumes and textiles from China, Japan, and Korea, chopped up the
images, and placed them, in patches, on silk mid-length dresses, blouses, and
his signature jackets and coats. Goldthread embroidery of birds in flight or
dragons was worked into some of the outerwear—half the torso and a sleeve,
maybe—in a way that leaves the options open for the pieces to be worn for day
or night.
Fluid
silks and sharp tailoring led the way - this, after all, is a designer who is
known for his masterful approach to mixing - and spanned the sartorial gamut of
flowing skirts and tapered trousers to gently oversized tunics and sharply-cut
jackets whose shoulder shaped into peaks and whose collars curved to a swift
slice. They came with eagle and tapestry prints or with gold patterns swirling
out upon them.
But there was a chinoiserie influence to the print that came
later, and this continued through to modern details such as the riff on obi
belts that were actually elasticated and fastened with Velcro - they came on
the dresses and the jackets and the coats, some boasting shoulders overshadowed
with fur.
Ordinary people’s costume in Qing dynasty.
The pattern of official’s costume in Qing dynasty.
The emperor's clothes in Qing dynasty.
Dries Van Noten Fall 2012
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